Sri Lanka: The Land of Serendipity (And Rice and Curry)

Six months ago, I made the decision to leave the corporate world – months later, fate brought me to Sri Lanka, where I spent 5 weeks eating (mostly rice and curry), praying (on meditation retreats and when I jaywalk) and – not loving, but pooping (because chillies aren’t the best for weak stomachs).

1. Think chilli padi gives no kick? Try Sri Lanka’s world-renowned chilli.

The world’s spiciest chillies are grown in Sri Lanka. The Bhut Jolokia, more commonly known as “cobra chillies” in Sri Lanka, is the hottest of all known chili peppers at 800,000 to 1,041,000 Scoville units. The Guinness Book of World Records certified these scorching spices as the world's hottest pepper in 2007.

I had to request for a takeaway for this plate of roti kottu because IT. WAS. SO. SPICY.

Third day into my pro bono volunteering with Sarvodaya, I had to rush to the nearest vegetable store for some wholesome shopping simply because my tongue (and stomach) couldn’t take them chillies no more!

2. Mono diets are a thing in Sri Lanka even before you know it.

Mono diets are diets where you eat the same thing, over and over again. Ask any locals and they would tell you with their curry-stained fingers, “We eat rice and curry. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Everyday.”

My rice and curry partner, aka my boyfriend who came to visit in the final week.

Rice and curry is the classic meal of Sri Lanka. Growing up in the food capital of Asia, singularity does not exist in my food-tionary!

Don’t get me wrong – I’ve enjoyed other Sri Lankan foods, like the 50 Rs. (~S$0.50) vaddai I bought off a street cart, the egg hoppers the ever-fatherly volunteer manager bought for me before my departure, the Sri Lankan crab curry on my last night in Jaffna and not forgetting the scrumptious home cooked meals a local family cooked for my friends and I. I don’t think I’ve had enough of those!

On the bright side, experts say you can drop pounds from mono diets!

3. People stare!

Here’s my favourite anecdote from this Reddit thread:
Why do Sri Lankan normal folk stare so much? They don't even look away if caught, they would just stare into your soul.

Buses and trains are - hands down - the best way to travel around Sri Lanka. Albeit sometimes uncomfortable, they are cheap, fast and get you practically everywhere. One thing though, you need to get ready for some serious staring.

Just S$0.20 for a train ride!

I was on my way to Kalpitiya, an unspoiled beach off the west coast. Travelling off-peak season, I was probably the only traveller in town. I boarded a bus headed for the coastal town and in typical Sri Lankan fashion, placed my rucksack on the overhead compartment and sat down with my backpack on my lap. One head turned, two heads, three, five, eight… and soon everyone in the sardine-packed bus had their eyes glued to the yellow-skinned girl.

Being one of the few Asians travelling off the beaten track, I was pretty used to getting stared at. But this, this was a whole new level of staring game! Some even turned and stared the first time, turned back for a split second before turning back the second, or even the third time!

Serious staring business.

4. Yes or no? I do not know.

You’ve probably heard about the head bobble (or the Indian head shake) notorious in this region. The head bobble is a combination of nodding yes and nodding no in one smooth, figure eight-shaped movement.

“Okay, okay.”

After a Head Bobble Masterclass™ with a local, I thought I was ready to take on the infamous head bobble. That night when I video-called my family, I cheekily tilted my head side-to-side. Boy, was I wrong.

Me to tuk-tuk driver: Do you know this place? points to my trusty Lonely Planet guidebook
Tuk-tuk driver: does the head bobble, looking clueless

Me: It’s very near the train station…?

Driver: Okay, okay. *does the head bobble again, eyebrows knitted*
Me: So… do you know the place? *waits patiently for a “yes”*

Driver: Okay, okay. *does his signature move*
Me: …

P.S. I got to my destination.

5. Zero waste travel is easy!

Getting a bun? The storekeeper grips one and casually places it on my palm. Need kitchen supplies? From ghee to rice grains, everything can be purchased in bulk! Buying an oily vaddai? Faster than you can say “vaddai”, a piece of fried lentils, wrapped in someone else’s old homework sheet, would be stuffed in your hand.

Kitchen supplies for when I volunteered. 1kg of rice from the local supermarket and vegetables from a local vegetable store – in my own container and bag.

From refusing straws to choosing buses over tuk-tuks, there are many ways one can be a responsible traveller. This is especially true when travelling in developing countries where each and every of our action, as travellers, can inevitably impact the locals’ way of life.

With 8 UNESCO Heritage Sites to its throne, the country has its eyes on tourism boom. With its tourism numbers expected to increase exponentially, this gem off the Indian Ocean needs to be protected before it becomes the next Thailand.

That brings me to my next point.

6. While tourism exposes you to the good, you see the worst in people too.

I woke up at 2am one day, looking forward to a breathtaking view atop the Adam’s Peak, one of Sri Lanka’s most striking peaks. Instead, I was greeted by an endless trail of plastic bottles, food wrappers and discarded pirith strings.

I wrote about it here but in summary, I left the place feeling disappointed and helpless (and with five flattened plastic bottles and filthy food wrappers in my bag).

Litter picking at the Yapahuwa Rock Fortress, which its negative impact is still reversible – it may not be the case with Adam’s Peak.

If you’re heading to Sri Lanka, you’d definitely have heard about the war. The country ended its 26-year civil year in 2009. Eight years on, some parts of the country are still recovering from war – the country can be extremely vulnerable. That being said, Sri Lankans are one of the most beautiful people on Earth – travel to this land of serendipity and you’d discover why it is rightly so.